2 - Assembly

dsc 0001 med


Options, Options. Print only the options you want.

1) Print base, original or modified. I think the modified  version goes well with the curve in the readout.  Sort of Art Deco like. Also the modified base comes out better on my printer. I’ve been printing my bases upside-down, uses less material that way, but feel free to print right side up with supports for a better finish if you’re like.

2) Endplates, regular or reinforced. Both will work. 

3) Readout tabs, blank or embossed with 1/0.  Personally I like the embossed ones, then just highlight the raised numbers with a black permanent marker. No need for numbered stickers!

4) Readout Clips - attaches the readout tabs to the flip flops, you can just as easily use a piece of straw. 

5) Straws long and short.  Either 3d print these, or cut up a straw in 1/2 inch and 1 inch lengths

6) Optional rubber band pulleys. My rubber bands kept popping off the top of the rods.  These pop on the end of the rod. You can glue them on for more stability.

7) Of course if you want to go for extra credit and bragging rights, skip the rubber bands and print yourself some in Ninjaflex.  Might not be a bad idea as you’d be able to tune-in the tension to perfection!  

Cleaning Your Prints

Examine you prints. You may find a little overprint or edge, especially if you squeeze that first layer, like I do.  Use an exact-knife, file, or whatever. 

1) Examine and clean the slots in the end plates 

2) Examine and clean the tabs on the end plates, gusset, and readout panel. Make sure the little notches are open so that the clips can pop into them.

3) Make sure that a rod will pass though the slot at the open end of the sliders, and that a rod moves easily on the slot on the other end. 

4) Make sure the slots are open in the base.

5) Make sure rods fit through the holes in the base plate, and though the rod bearing plate. Check the hole for the pin too.

6) The moving plates must move smoothly though the end plates. These include  the flip flops, set-clear clock, and reset clock.  Adjust the slots in the endplates if needed. 

7) Also check the hook-in-tabs on the readout and gusset, to make sure they’re open.

8) Examine and clean the elaborate holes for the clock rods.  Be careful NOT to trim off the important nubs on the clock and reset plates as shown:



image-32 med

Don’t trim off!

And now for the best part, Some Assembly Required!

We will follow a similar sequence to the original assembly instructions.  If you’d like to follow the original instead, its available here.

Start with the base of your choice. 

And your end-pieces, reinforced or regular.

As you can see, the ends of the base are different.   Position so the hole for the crank and with wider spacing on the left. In this position you are looking at the front of the device. 

Before proceeding, make sure the slots are clear of overprint, and that there is room for the tabs to fit.

As you can see, these need to be cleaned out first, with an exact0-knife or file. 

Before and After.

image-29 med
image-30 med

Lets talk for a moment about the crank hole the hole on the left, above. in the version shown, the hole is much too large. The hole must be small enough such that the crank is stable within it. The wire crank should not wiggle back and fourth, it should only be able to turn. If there is wiggle in the crank, the device will be unreliable at best

Now go ahead and inset the end pieces with the raised lettering of each facing left, towards the crank hole.

image-33 med

 (Raised lettering to the left)

And again for the other end piece.

On the right side of the device, install the gusset part,by  hooking it through the supplied slots in the endplate, and then sliding down, so the tab on the gusset fits fully into the slot.  Make sure the slots on  the endplate are cleaned up of any overprint before attempting to attach the gusset..

Now do the same for the readout plate on the other side.

Turn the device over and attach clips wherever they will fit.  Make sure the clips engage with the small slots in the tabs.

image-39 med

Setting the base assembly aside for a moment, attach a readout tabs to each of the three flip-flops  A short section of straw, or the 3D printed connectors can be used for this purpose.   Note that the connectors have a slot which fits over the center reinforcement on the flipflop. Slide the readout tab under the flipflop and into the connector. 

Bring the base assembly forward again for further assembly.

Take the clock panel and slide it into the assembly through the lowest slot.  The rippled edge should be towards the front of the device.

Next, slide the clear panel through the second set of slots from the bottom.

Be sure that the slots for the crank are on the left for both the clock and the reset panels.

Be sure that the slots for the crank are on the left for both the clock and the reset panels. Being things are so visible, now would be a good time to install the crank. Work the crank wire into the slots of the clear and clock panels and into the hole in the base. 

image-44 med

Next slide in the three flip-flops through the next three slots, so that the readout tab will show through the window in the readout plate.

Here it is with all three flip-flops installed

Next, install the slider plate by first working one end through a slot, then sliding back into the other slot.    Be sure that the hole for the pin is on the left.

Position the slider plate so that it pushes down and latches into place in the notches in the endplates.

image-49 med

Install the rod bearing plate by first sliding the plate through the slot on the left sufficiently that it can easily be slid into the right end piece to minimize bending.

Then slide the panel to the right, through the right side end plate, and lock it down in the tabs provided. 

Here you can see how the rod bearing plate latches into the end panels. 

image-52 med

If you haven’t installed the crank previously, Install it now by sliding it through the slots in the clock and reset plates and into the hole in the base.

image-52 med

Again, as mentioned about, the size of the crank hole is critical.  The hole must be small enough such that the crank is stable within it. The wire crank should not wiggle back and fourth, it should only be able to turn. If there is wiggle in the crank, the device will be unreliable at best

There’s a decision to make now.

You can just start installing logic rods on the front of the device, as show, with a #10 rubber band. 

Or you can attach a little pulley to the top of each of the logic wires. Pop them on. These help keep the rubber band from slipping off the top of the logic rods. I don’t recommend gluing them on as it makes it difficult to later straighten a rod if necessary.

If the rubber band isn’t tight enough, you can also wrap it around the pulley again. 

Proceed (with or without pulleys) until all the logic rods are installed.

Turn the device around so the back side is facing you. 

Make sure that the right ends of the clock and reset rods are even  This positions the two panels in the correct position for installing clock rods. 

With the clock and reset panels in this position, it’s easy to see where the pairs of clock rods should go.

Pass each clock rod through the closed end of a slider. The rod must move freely without catching the full length of the slot in the slider.

After passing the slotted end of the slider over the slider plate, and onto the associate clock rod in front, insert the top and bottom of the rod into the base and rod bearing plate respectively

Notice in this image, how clock rods occur in pairs 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6. In pairs, clock rods move symmetrically.

Continue with remaining sliders and clock rods as shown

one of the last steps in assembly is attaching the top plate. However, you may wish to wait until debugging is complete. With the front of the device towards you, insert the end of the top plate without the hole for the pin into the left end-piece.  Push it in as far as it goes. Then squeeze the left end of the top plate into the slot on the left end plate.


Finally insert the pin through the top plate , adjusting alignment so, so that the pin passes through the appropriate hole or slot in each plate, ending in the base of the device. If you are debugging without the top plate, it’s perfectly fine to install the pin so that the device is stable. 

pin med

Congratulations!  You’ve completed assembly. Proceed to Checkout.

thumb img 1649 1024 med

© Some Old Guy 2017